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A while back, I made these DIY pants with an exposed zipper. I’ve worn these pants a lot and then refashioned them by adding a high waistband.
When low-rise was all the rage, so were these pants. But I had to find a way to save this creation, and update the midsection by giving it a raise.
I’ll tell you about the fabric, notions, my process, and share some photos. This might give you an idea for your next pair of pants.
Simplicity S2665 Wardrobe Pattern
Okay, I’m not a junior anymore. But I’ve had Simplicity S2665 sewing pattern forever, and still like it because it’s one of the easiest pairs of pants ever.
And I’ve made many! The pattern actually comes with a whole set, and you can make a top, vest, and shorts too.
I’ve also made the shorts, which are similar to the pants. Both will have the exposed zipper and front patch pockets.
The pants are wide-legged and darted in the back. There’s no waistband or yoke, which makes it a quicker sew.
Materials
Here are the things I used to make my pants, and I’ve had good luck choosing my fabrics.
Fabric
So, I’ve made many of these pants in different fabrics. The ones that I think work best are medium-weight with structure and a little drape.
I got this denim from the fashion district near me. It’s got a slight stretch, and it’s not the stiff denim they make for jeans.
I love this fabric and wish I could find more of it. Also, it doesn’t really fade, so I know it must be a polyester-cotton blend.
Suggested fabrics include laundered cottons, lightweight linen, linen blends, denim, pinwhale, corduroy, pique, poplin, twill, and sateen.
Notions
I used a 7-inch zipper for the front closure. Plus, I used 1-1/2 inch (1.5 inch) wide woven heavy stretch knit elastic for the back waistband.
The pattern calls for 1/4 inch (0.25-inch) wide twill tape for the waist.
I used medium-weight fusible interfacing for the front waistband as well.
Needle
For this denim material, I used a size 90/14 universal needle, and it worked fine.
Thread
For my sewing machine, I used Gutermann universal thread made of 100% polyester. I also used jeans thread, which is a poly cotton blend.
For the serging, I used Maxi-Lock spun thread, which is made of 100% polyester.
Sewing My Pants
I’ve made these pants many times, but adding a waistband was a different ballgame. Do you see the before-and-after?
Prepping
Throughout the years, I’ve made these pants in many sizes. So, I graded the sewing pattern to make the pieces easier to cut.
I drew the pattern on upcycled brown packing paper. It works so well if you don’t have pattern paper, but it’s not see-through.
The sizing is in junior ranges, which aren’t as curvy as misses. I fall into the junior plus sizes.
But you can turn a junior’s pattern into a misses one. All I had to do was adjust the hip and add an inch to the crotch length.
Construction
The construction is simple for these pants, and that’s why I keep making them. The first thing you’ll do is add the patch pockets.
These look nice with the double topstitch. Then you’ll sew long seams for the front and back legs.
Next, I installed the exposed zipper. Not only do I like this look, but it’s way easier and quicker than making a fly zipper.
After attaching the facing and hemming, the pants are practically done! I’ll also mention that this fabric was a dream to work with, and took to the sewing machine so well.
Adjustments
I made many adjustments to these pants before and after I wore them. You might think it’d be easier to search for a whole new sewing pattern. But I can’t find any like these pants.
First of all, the pants sewn from the original pattern are very wide-legged. They don’t look it in the picture, but they are. So, I tapered them in a bit to decrease the width.
Second, they are a low-rise pant for me. And these sit pretty low, as I have a higher waist.
I could wear them as is with a longer top, but I like to show some waist. I don’t like how they hang off my hips, which was my style a long, long time ago.
The original sewing pattern has you use twill tape and a facing to finish the waist. I had to deconstruct all of that to add a waistband.
When adding a waistband, more length is added to the pants. While that solves the low-rise problem, you might have to take it in around the waist.
My cure for that, as always, is to add elastic to the back waistband. It’s much more comfortable to wear this way!
So I have this flat front elastic back thing going on. Plus, I kept the exposed zipper, because I like it.
Another adjustment I made to the original pants was lengthening the inseam. I have long legs and also wanted a thicker hem.
Finishing Details
I topstitched with the jean’s thread because it was a lighter blue and popped. A silver metal zipper would have matched better, but I had many gold ones in my stash, so I might as well use them up.
When making my original pants, I also added belt hoops after wearing them. After my size decreased, the pants were a little big, so I used a tie belt to keep them up.
The belt loops didn’t look right, and it tried to match them. But, I wanted a quick fix at the time.
Well, I removed them during the refashion anyway! And it looks much better now, wouldn’t you say?
Project Notes
If you do adjustments on pants that you’ve already made and want to skip the mockup, I’d baste first. Then run your permanent stitches after you’ve tested that everything fits.
You’ll want to make sure the “exposed” part of the zipper is equal on both sides of the fabric. I pinned mine in place.
It might take a little practice, but I’ve been making them so long, they don’t faze me.
Plus, the fabric at the end of my zipper splits. So I had to hand-sew it up or else there would have been a slight visible opening by the zipper stop.
Simplicity S8847 Wardrobe Pattern
The top is from Simplicity S8847 and comes in a sportswear set. So if you’re feeling like easy pants, dress, top, and jacket, they have those too.
It has cut-outs on the shoulders and slits up the sides. I made mine in rayon and shortened the length.
If you make this blouse, you’ll want to use silky fabrics, so it’ll have a nice flowy drape.
Final Thoughts
Refashioning my zip-up pants was well worth the effort. I’m not saying that was easy, but definitely a challenge.
At the end, I love them even more and will wear them for a long time. Now, are you eyeing those low-rise pants in your closet?
More Sewing Projects
I have many other related posts on my blog. You might want to check them out.
- By the way, I made a tutorial on how to do this pants waistband hack.
- And, if you like that, check out my flat front elastic back skirt hack.
- And I put the zipper in the back of my denim mini skirt.
- Sewing my wide-legged pants with a long slit was much easier and fun.
I’d love to hear all about your sewing journey!
Originally published: October 14, 2025
