Earth-Toned Shacket in Gray & Olive | Simplicity S9388

I made a DIY shacket in earth-toned colors, gray and olive. And, the best part is that I used up remnants in my stash to make it.

When I force myself to use the fabrics I already have, I get creative. So, before you run out to the store, you might see what leftovers you can use up.

I’ll tell you all about the materials I used, my process, and share photos of my creation. You might get ideas to make a similar one!

Simplicity S9388 Jacket Pattern

This sewing pattern is great for making a shirt jacket, or shacket. Simplicity S9388 has a unisex sizing with nice features. 

It’s a button-up, unlined garment. Well, except for the yoke, as it has a lining. 

It has long sleeves, a back yoke, and large front patch pockets. For the long version, you can add side seam pockets.

Someone at an intermediate to advanced level could tackle this. You’ll need to know how to make a pleat, sew collars, cuffs, buttonholes, and buttons.

Materials

Here’s everything I used to make this garment. And  I already had the earthy colors in my collection. 

Fabric

I never thought about matching these colors when I bought them. Although I’d like to say I had a big, complex strategy for choosing them, I didn’t.

The stretch cotton twill is in olive color. The stretch denim is in gray. 

I got both fabrics from Joann, and the colors go together pretty well. They’re between medium to heavy weight. 

Suggested fabrics are broadcloth, chino, corduroy, cotton blends, lightweight denim, flannel, linen blends, stretch woven, tweed, wood types, and sweatshirt fleece. Lining fabrics to use are flannel, cotton, and polyester.

These were leftover pieces from my stash. So, I didn’t have enough of any fabric to make it in one color. And that’s fine with me!

For the yoke lining, I chose a cotton print fabric. I got it from Mood Fabrics and have made a blouse with it. 

Notions

For the front closure, I used 3/4-inch (0.75-inch) buttons. Depending on whether you make the long or short version, you’ll need 9 to 11 of them.

I also used medium-weight fusible interfacing for areas that needed structure: collar, cuffs, band, etc.

Needle

For sewing the cotton twill and denim, I used a size 90/14 universal needle. These fabrics are not super heavy, but heavier than a medium-weight fabric.

Thread

For my sewing machine, I used matching Gutermann universal thread made of polyester.

For the serging, I used Maxi-Lock, which is for overlocking and made of polyester.

Sewing My Jacket

I love sewing jackets, and this one took time to prep. Otherwise, the construction went along well.

Prepping

Before cutting, I had to sort through my stash. That was an adventure because I didn’t have the fabric organized well!

All my remnants were stuffed in huge bags back then. I have now since organized the gigantic mess.

Then I chose the fabrics for my project. I sewed small pieces together to have enough to cut pattern pieces.

That’s why you’ll see extra seam lines on my shacket. That’s from me creating enough yardage to cut from.

Construction

Those extra seam lines added more detail to the jacket anyway. Maybe I should say I added them on purpose. Ha!

I’ve made so many Simplicity jackets, I’m used to their directions. I didn’t follow them completely.

For the yoke lining, I used the cotton print fabric. It shows around the collar when I wear it.

The big patch pockets in the front were fun to make. I don’t really use them, but they’re fun to have.  

The sleeves have a pleat that gives them a little volume. I like the wide button-up cuffs.

I do like the collar on this jacket too. With the fabric, it just flops open, and it’s not too stiff. 

Oh, and some people don’t use interfacing on stretch woven fabric. I do because I still want that structure, without it being bulky.

Adjustments

If you look at the models on the pattern envelope, you won’t see a bottom band. Instead, the jacket was designed with a hem.

I made the shorter variation, and wouldn’t really call it a crop. The bottom band came from Simplicity S8845 jean jacket pattern. 

I thought this would look better than sewing a hem. It took more effort to create, but I do like the results.

Finishing Details

I stitched all the seams with my sewing machine. Then I finished the seams with my serger.

As I went along, I topstitched all the seams as well. This is something I always do when sewing heavier-weight fabric.

That way, the seams look nice and neat. They will lie flat instead of looking bulky.

Now for the buttons… I like to pull out a few options before I sew them on my garment.

Considering I have a billion buttons, I have a lot of options. But these matched perfectly! 

Project Notes

If you think you’re not ready to make a jacket, but you’ve made a shirt, well you might want to take a go at it. 

The jacket will have heavier-weight fabrics and bigger buttons, but it’s very similar. In fact, you could use this pattern to make a flannel shirt.

Just be sure to use the correct needle when using lighter or heavier fabrics. 

For the length I made, there are no inseam pockets. However, for sewing a longer version, you might add these. Maybe I’ll add welt pockets in the future.

If you mix fabrics like I did, make sure you choose ones that have similar properties. For example, I chose stretch wovens for my project. If I were to mix in a stable knit, it could still look cool, but would be more challenging to sew.

Final Thoughts

This sewing project took some time to plan and piece together. But I like the outcome, and I love wearing my shacket.

Maybe I’ll make another two-toned piece with different colors and designs. That would be really fun!

More Sewing Projects

I have more related posts that might interest you on my blog. You might want to check them out. 

• What about some tips for making outerwear from my years of sewing?

• I took some old skinny jeans and upcycled them into a jean jacket.

• I also made a denim jacket using smooth sateen fabric.

• A classic wardrobe piece, like a long jacket, can go with many outfits.

I’d love to hear about your sewing journey and what you’re making!

Originally published: October 21, 2024