Empire Waist Knit Dress with Scoop Neck | Simplicity S2883

I made a fun, easy look using a basic pattern and adding a special touch. I overdyed my DIY knit dress to change up the fabric. 

It looks pretty cool against the colors at the beach! And I love wearing it as it’s so comfy to spend the day in.

I’ll tell you about the pattern, materials, process, and photos. You might get ideas to make some fun dresses too.

Simplicity S2883 Dress Pattern

Although this sewing pattern is out of print, you can still buy it online. Simplicity S2883 was part of the Project Runway collection back in the day.

Oooh… I’ve been sewing for a looong time. And I miss this line.

This is a fitted knit dress with a rounded neckline, or aka scoop neck. It has an empire waist with gathers in the front and back.

There are options to make a sleeveless or short-sleeved dress and an overbodice. Plus, you can add a tie belt that’s long enough to crisscross. 

The pattern even comes with a croquis, so you can design your look before making it.

Materials

Here’s all the stuff I used for this garment. Plus, the fabric dye, which I mention later.

Fabric

I have bought many knit fabrics in the fashion district near me. The white one felt so soft, and that’s why I got it.

However, I didn’t know about the embroidered design. It popped out too much against the white fabric. 

But given the price, I’d play around with it. So I dyed it.

I made this pattern in other fabrics too, including jersey and two-way stretch. The green and black dress is made of two contrasting cotton knits.

Suggested fabrics include jerseys, matte jerseys, lightweight double knits, stretch velvet, two-way stretch, and novelty knits.

Notions

You’ll need straight seam binding to put along seams so they don’t stretch out. I prefer to use clear elastic for this.

I also used 1/4 inch (0.25-inch) knit elastic for the overbodice. 

And on one of my variations, I used stretch lace to finish the raw edges of the bodice and skirt.

Needle

I used a size 80/12 ballpoint needle for these medium-weight knits. When sewing stretchy fabric, this type of needle is the best to use. 

Thread

I used matching Gutermann sew-all thread in my sewing machine. It’s made of polyester.

I didn’t use a serger this time, so no need for the thread. But I usually use Maxi-Lock spun thread.

Sewing My Dress

Sewing this dress was pretty straightforward. I followed the directions.

Prepping

Cutting knit fabric always takes more time. It tends to move around a lot.

However, most of the knits I used to make this dress were more stable. 

But the fabric with the embroidered design took time. I cut the dress so the embroidery would be on the sleeves and along the skirt’s bottom. 

That way, I didn’t have to hem it, and it served as the finish to the edges.

I didn’t make a mockup, and I don’t always with knits. They stretch so I don’t have I have room to play with.

Construction

I made this dress solely with my sewing machine, so I didn’t use a serger. I mainly used a straight and zig-zag stitch.

These worked fine on the knit fabric. I also played around with the overlocking stitch too.

I made the empire bodice, which was made of a front and back. The scoop neck was easy to make as it just folds over.

The tie belt gets sewn into the side seams, and I had to make carriers by braiding some thread together.

Then I made the sleeves (for the version with sleeves). I didn’t have to finish them because of the embroidery.

The skirt is only a front and back piece as well. It has some gathering in the front and back, so I did that before attaching it.

Since this dress is made of stretchy fabric, I didn’t have to worry too much about the fit. That’s the benefit of knits, as they tend to be more forgiving.

If this had been a woven dress, I’d fit the bust, perhaps grade the hips, and add a zipper. Now that’s much more work.

I made an overbodice for the sleeveless dress. It has a cross front and gathers up the back.

You can tack it to the dress or wear it loosely. I didn’t tack it because I could wear it with other tops.

Adjustments

I didn’t have to make any fit adjustments since this had an empire waist. I’m high-waisted, so it fits fine.

On the green striped dress, I added lace instead of finishing the hems. 

Final Touches

On the dress made with embroidered fabric, I wanted to add random splashes of color.I guess it’s a tie-dye of sorts, but I can also say it’s an overdye too.

I mixed a bunch of Rit dye colors that I already had in my stash: dark blue, dark green, gray, and yellow.

Then I twisted the fabric and secured it with rubber bands. I soaked the dress in the dye bath for 30 minutes. 

I repeated this process several times. So, as you would expect, it took a while. 

While the dress soaked in the dye bath, I sewed. When the timer went off, I would unravel it and twist it back up differently. 

Voila! Well, I think it looks pretty cool, but maybe next time I’ll try to create a pattern instead of having it look so random. 

Project Notes

Although this pattern came out years ago, I still use it. I’ve got some old ones, but gave away many. Now I wish I had kept them.

You can always make modifications to update them. Say, if the puff sleeves aren’t in style anymore, I’d tweak them to make them more current.

By the way, puff sleeves are still in. I’m just using that for an example.

And, as far as dyeing fabric, it’s a lot of work and gets messy. But it’s fun.

Fabric dye comes in handy when you want to change up a color or correct it. And I do like seeing the end results.

Final Thoughts

I’ll still use this pattern to create dresses on occasion. It has a flattering neckline, which I like, with a nice high waist. 

Plus, this garment is so easy to wear. And who knows, I might make my next one a dyed creation too.

More Sewing Projects

I have other related posts on my blog. You might want to check them out. 

• I made a maxi knit skirt with a long slit to complete a nautical look.

• Would you like to make a T-shirt from a basic sewing pattern?

• How about a cardigan to throw on when wearing a knit dress?

I’d love to hear all about your fun sewing projects! 

Originally published: February 7, 2025