Empire Waist Dress with Dolman Sleeves | McCall’s M8104

I made a DIY empire waist dress with dolman sleeves. It’s another casual, flowy piece that’s so comfy to wear.

While organizing my stash, I found the remnants from this sewing project. So, that reminded me of my dress.

I’ll tell you all about the pattern, materials used, process, and share photos. You might want to make one too.

McCall’s M8104 Dress Pattern

I chose McCall’s M8104 sewing pattern because I liked the way the model looked in the dress. I think that’s 70% of my decision-making when it comes to choosing them. Ha!

Also known as the Dawn McCall’s, it has gathers along the empire waist, on the front bust and back skirt.

It has a V-neck and is button-up on the front. The sleeves are dolman-style with flounce variations for them and the skirt. 

The dress has a loose fit, skims the waist, and has a flattering A-line skirt. This pattern looks a bit retro, especially if you choose a vintage-like fabric.

It’s rated easy, and I think it’s a good project for someone at an intermediate level. You’ll need to know how to make buttonholes and sew buttons.

Materials

Here’s everything I used for this project. How things in my stash just come to life!

Fabric

I used Tencel twill to make my dress. It came from Joann, and I wished they had more in different prints.

You’ll want to use a silky-type fabric with a nice drape. Or you could use a light cotton fabric. 

Suggested materials include crepes, challis, cotton blends, and dotted swiss.

For the lining, I chose a blue lightweight Tencel from Mood Fabrics. I love the silky feel of this material!

Notions

Depending on the length of the dress, you’ll need either 8 or 10 buttons. The pattern calls for 5/8-inch (0.625-inch) size buttons.

For the interfacing, I chose lightweight fusible for structure.

Needle

I used a size 80/12 universal needle to make my dress. The weight of this fabric felt more medium-weight. For the lining, I used a size 75/11 needle.

Thread

For my sewing machine, I used matching Gutermann universal thread made of 100% polyester.

I serged the seams using Maxi-Lock spun thread. It’s for overlocking and made of polyester.

Sewing My Dress

Making this dress was straightforward, as it doesn’t have many details. I followed the directions, which were pretty clear. 

Prepping

When washing Tencel fabric, I had to be careful. I washed it on delicate, and dried it by hanging so it wouldn’t pill.

Tencel may shrink, so I used a low heat setting when ironing it. It did this before cutting the fabric.

I didn’t make a mockup to fit the bust. It gathers under the bust and is loose-fitting, so I know it’d fit.

However, you want to make sure it’s not too big. That’s why making a mockup is a good thing.

Construction

When I sewed my dress, the fabric moved around. It’s not stable to sew on like cotton fabric.

So, when I say this project had a lot of moving parts, well… I’m telling you.

The front bust gathers on an angle to the skirt, creating an empire seam. So, hence, you’ll get yourself a nice empire waist.

It’s a pretty nice style for high-waisted people like me. I usually have to raise my waistline about an inch when making dresses.

It also has dolman sleeves, so I didn’t have to attach separate ones. The bust and sleeve are all one piece, like a robe-style.

That’s great if you don’t like sewing sleeves or you need more room in the arm area. Or you just like to feel the breeze.

Now, with the buttons, you’ll have to use interfacing and make the placket. I don’t find this part difficult, but you’ll want to make sure all your vertical lines look symmetrical. 

I like to re-measure when I do the fold-over. Then I pin, and then baste. Before running my permanent stitch, I made sure everything was lined up. 

Adjustments

I didn’t make any adjustments to this pattern. You’ll see how the V-neckline looks on me. 

It cuts deep, and some people might find it too low. You might want to adjust it if you want it higher. 

Also, there are no pockets on this dress. I love me a dress with pockets!

Finishing Touches

In sunlight, you can see through this fabric. So, I made a lining out of the lightweight Tencel.

To attach the lining, I cut it using the skirt pattern. I basted it to the top of the skirt and continued sewing the dress. 

When making the dress facing, I tucked the lining into it. That way it stays in place.

Project Notes

This is a nice style of dress to make, if you want a loose one. There’s gathering in the front and back, so be sure to mark those.

However, with the dolman sleeves, I think it gives me a wider look on top. Maybe if I made longer sleeves with the flounce, it would fix this.

I like the Tencel fabric, as it drapes well and feels soft. It really makes the dress flow when I walk.

Plus the fabric is breathable, so it’s great for warmer weather. Whatever you do, make sure you use a drapey fabric for this sewing pattern.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I like my dress, and my favorite thing about it is the fabric. It’s very easy and breezy to wear.

The print gives me more fall vibes, so I’m stuck to wearing it during one season. But we still have a few warm days when that time of year comes.

More Sewing Projects

I have other posts that you might find interesting. You might want to check them out. 

• I made a semi-fitted button-up dress out of chambray that’s also easy to wear.

• I upcycled tencel twill pants to make a color-blocked midi skirt with godet.

• What about some essential tips for making clothes?

I’d love to hear about your sewing adventures!

Originally published: April 8, 2025