Empire Waist Dress with Dolman Sleeves | McCall’s M8104

Luna smiling to camera with hands on hips wearing her empire waist dress made with McCall’s M8104 sewing pattern

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

I made a DIY empire waist dress with dolman sleeves. It’s another casual, flowy piece that’s so comfy to wear.

While organizing my stash, I found the remnants from this sewing project. So, that reminded me of my dress!

McCall’s M8104 Dress Pattern

Luna’s hand holding McCall’s M8104 sewing pattern envelope showing model wearing finished dress

I chose McCall’s M8104 sewing pattern because I liked the way the model looked in the dress!  Ha!

Also known as the Dawn McCall’s, it’s rated easy. There are gathers along the empire waist, on the front bust, and back skirt.

It has a V-neck and is button-up on the front. The sleeves are dolman-style with flounce variations for them and the skirt. 

The dress has a loose fit, skims the waist, and has a flattering A-line skirt. This pattern looks a bit retro, especially if you choose a vintage-like fabric.

Materials

Here are the fabric and notions I used for this garment. How things in my stash just come to life!

Close up of Tencel twill fabric Luna used to make her empire waist dress

Fabric: I used Tencel twill to make my dress. It came from Joann, and I wished they had more in different prints.

It has a nice drape, and it’s light and breathable. The only thing is that it can pill easily.

Close up of light weight Tencel twill fabric Luna used for the lining of her empire waist dress

For the lining, I chose a blue lightweight Tencel from Mood Fabrics. I love the silky feel of this material!

Suggested materials for the dress include crepes, challis, cotton blends, and dotted swiss.

Notions: I used 5/8-inch (0.625-inch) size buttons and lightweight fusible interfacing for structure.

Sewing the Flowy Dress

Making this dress was straightforward, as it doesn’t have many details. I followed the directions, which were pretty clear. 

Luna smiling to camera with one hand on hip wearing her dress made out of Tencel twill

I didn’t make a mockup to fit the bust. It gathers under the bust and is loose-fitting, so I know it’d fit.

Back of Luna’s handmade dress made with Tencel twill fabric on the dress form

The front bust gathers on an angle to the skirt, creating an empire seam. So, hence, you’ll get yourself a nice empire waist.

It’s a pretty nice style for high-waisted people like me. I usually have to raise my waistline about an inch when making dresses.

Luna smiling with hands down sides wearing her empire waist dress made with McCall’s M8104 sewing pattern

I didn’t make any adjustments to this pattern. You’ll see how the V-neckline looks on me. 

It cuts deep, and some people might find it too low. You might want to adjust it if you want it higher. 

Close up of tencel twill fabric held up to sunlight that Luna used to make her dress

In sunlight, you can see through this fabric. So, I made a lining out of the lightweight Tencel.

Also, there are no pockets on this dress. I love me a dress with pockets!

Notes

Luna smiling with hands down sides wearing her dress out of Tencel twill and made with McCall’s M8104

This is a nice style of dress to make, if you want a loose one that still shows a bit of figure.

However, with the dolman sleeves, I think it gives me a wider look on top. Maybe if I made longer sleeves with the flounce, it would fix this.

I like the Tencel fabric, as it drapes well and feels soft. It really makes the dress flow when I walk.

Plus, the fabric is breathable, so it’s great for warmer weather. 

Well, I like my dress, and my favorite thing about it is the fabric. The print gives me more fall vibes, so I pretty much wear it during one season! 

Read More

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

error: Content is copyright protected.
Scroll to Top