Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
I’ve made quite a few DIY zip-up jackets throughout the years. I keep digging out this classic style with a hood in knee-length.
This piece pairs well with just about anything in my wardrobe and can be used as a windbreaker. And bonus, I made a dress with the same pattern.
Let me tell you about the sewing pattern, materials I used, my process, and share photos. You might make a similar one.
Simplicity S3694 Wardrobe Pattern
I’ve been using Simplicity S3694 using for years. It’s an out-of-print sewing pattern, but I still see it online.
It includes a minidress and hoodie jacket variation, and I’ve made all versions.
Shorten the dress, and you have a top. I’ve done a little experimenting with this sewing pattern.
The shape reminds me of a basic raincoat. Don’t let it fool you because it has a little more detail.
I have been looking around for a similar pattern made in the last couple of years. I couldn’t find one quite like this.
The zip-up front, sleeves, and big pockets are the things I like about it. Plus, it overall has a modern, minimalist vibe about it.
Materials
Here’s everything I used to make these garments. For the most part, the jacket will need the most supplies and is my focus.
Fabric
Now I’ve used various fabrics, including denim, linen, and a mix of lightweight twills. I got different results with each one.
I used stretch denim for one creation. It wasn’t very stretchy and more on the stable side. This fabric worked very well.
Then I used a cotton twill to make a jacket. It was less stiff than the denim, but I like the results.
For the dress version, I mixed different stretch wovens to see what would happen. It came out pretty cool, but the main fabric didn’t have good rebound.
The suggested fabrics are lightweight denim, twill, seersucker, sateen, and linen. You can also use stable knits.
Notions
To make the long jacket, I used a 25-inch-long zipper. The sewing pattern actually calls for a 14-inch separating zipper for its version.
In addition, I used grommets for the hoods. You’d typically insert a cord, but I didn’t use one.
I added snap tape to the dress. This was purely for decoration only.
For my interfacing, I used medium-weight fusible kind for structure.
Needle
For the medium-weight fabrics, I used a size 90/14 universal needle. I went up to a size 100/16 needle for the denim and topstitching.
Thread
For my denim jacket, I used Coats & Clark jeans thread in my sewing machine. It’s made of a polyester and cotton blend.
For the other creations, I used matching Gutermann universal thread. It’s made of 100% polyester.
I serged the seams using Maxi-Lock spun thread. It’s for overlocking and made of polyester.
Sewing My Jacket
The directions were clear and easy to follow. It still took time to sew because of the details.
Prepping
When I first cut this sewing pattern, I was smaller. Since then, I’ve graded it up to my current size.
Cutting for my jackets was straightforward. It took time to cut fabric for the dress with the stripes and different fabrics I used.
I just chose the fabrics in my stash. The colors went together, so I just went for it.
Construction
When sewing a jacket, I measure my zipper first. Then I try to make the length of the jacket for the zipper.
I try to use up my stash rather than running out and buying them all the time. And I have a big ol’ stash of them!
A couple of store-bought jackets hang in my closet. So, I studied the construction on them before sewing this one.
It has simple pieces to sew, but you’ve got the zipper and the hood. The zipper will be constructed in the front facing.
Make sure everything is lined up all nice before finishing it off. Otherwise, you’ll have to open that facing to get to the zipper again.
The sleeves on this sewing pattern were very easy to sew because of the raglan style.
The pockets weren’t difficult either, but after I finished I thought they could be lowered.
When I made the dress version in the stretch woven fabrics, I was mostly playing around. I didn’t know if I’d actually wear it.
Then I wore it a few times. But then I added a zipper and made it into a top so I could wear it with pants.
Adjustments
The jacket sleeves took all the adjustments on this pattern. First, I extended them because they were 3/4 length on me.
I didn’t want sleeves that hang right past my elbows, so I extended them down to my wrist. I didn’t change the short sleeves on the dress.
Also, the long sleeves were pretty wide. So, tapered them in a bit, and I like them now.
Finishing Details
Adding in the grommets on the hood took some time. I don’t think my grommet tool works very well. Plus, it’s tricky with thicker fabric.
I sewed snap tape for decorations. Mind you, I only had one side of it, and who knows where the matching side is. So, I figured I might as well use it for something.
With the thicker fabric, I topstitched the seams. You’ll want to do this when making a jacket to keep the fold lines nice and neat.
Project Notes
As you can see, I played around with this pattern by experimenting with different fabrics.
Just remember, fabric choices will determine the outcome. The denim version looks different from the linen one because linen doesn’t hold shape like denim.
My jacket has huge pockets in the front, which I love. I’d like to use these pockets on other sewing patterns.
I do like the length because it’s nice and long. You’ll want to find a length that’s comfortable for you to wear.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I like my jacket and appreciate that it has a hood. The zipper front is long, and I have to bend down to reach the bottom of it.
I don’t know if I’d make the dress again, but it was fun to create. I especially like wearing my linen version at the beach when it’s windy!
More Sewing Projects
I have many other related blog posts that you might fancy. You might want to check them out.
- What about some outerwear sewing tips to help get that professional look?
- I made a workwear jacket that has volume to the sleeves.
- My upcycled tracksuit jacket is also a zip-up with a hood.
- What about making a double-sided scarf for your jacket?
I’d love to hear about your sewing journey and what you’re making!
Originally published: April 29, 2025
