Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
I made a DIY denim jacket with stretch cotton sateen fabric. This garment is so soft, and it happens to be one of my favorite creations.
Well, I can never go wrong with adding a piece like this to my wardrobe. It goes with practically everything.
Let me tell you more about the materials used, my process, and share some personal photos. You might want to make one too!
Simplicity S8845 Jacket Pattern
I couldn’t wait to make Simplicity S8845 sewing pattern when it first came out. This is a well-structured jean jacket by Mimi G Style.
It has flat-fell seams, welt pockets, cuffs, a collar, and a bottom band. You’ll have to make buttonholes and topstitch.
It will take some patience and more advanced sewing skills to complete. There are 20 pattern pieces.
There is a free sew-along video on YouTube. It’s very helpful, by the way.
Materials
Here are all the things I used to make my jacket, and I already had them at home.
Fabric
A beautiful gray sateen denim sat at the top of my closet forever. I waited to find the perfect project to use it.
I bought it while browsing Mood fabric, and I wish they had other colors.
This stretch cotton material feels so buttery soft. It’s a medium-weight with a smooth finish.
I bought a generous 3 yards, but only needed 2-1/2 yards (2.5 yards). The extra fabric came in handy—trust me.
For the mockup, I used a cheap stretch woven fabric from the fashion district near me.
The suggested fabrics to make this jacket are denim, chino, corduroy, sateen, and twill.
Notions
You’ll need 5/8-inch (0.625-inch) dungaree, flat, or shank buttons. I used shank buttons on my jacket.
If you like sewing buttons, you’re in luck. You’ll need 14 buttons total.
I used a lightweight fusible interfacing for the collar, cuffs, and front facing. Your interfacing should always be lighter in weight than your fabric.
Needle
The weight of this fabric was a bit lighter than your typical denim, so I used a size 90/14 universal needle.
Thread
For general sewing and topstitching, I used matching Gutermann sew-all thread. It’s made of 100% polyester.
To serge the seams, I used Maxi-Lock serger spun thread. It’s also made of polyester.
Sewing My Jacket
This pattern has many pieces and details, so it took time. I found it easier to sew along with the video.
Prepping
First, I created a mockup with the cheap fabric. I did this to check the sizing, as I didn’t know if I should go with the small or medium size.
Sometimes, all-inclusive patterns for misses, men, and teens can run bigger. Because I was making the jacket in stretch fabric, I thought I could size down.
Nope, the size small was little tight, plus the arms were a bit short. I could have lengthened the arms, but sizing up was better. My weight fluctuates sometimes, so at least it’d fit.
Construction
Besides making the mockup, this was the first detailed denim jacket I had made. I was used to making the collar and front. The side seams and patch pockets went well.
There are many pieces to this pattern, and I couldn’t find one. I was searching around, looking for it.
Turns out, I never cut it! Luckily, I had so much fabric left over, it wasn’t a problem.
When I got to making the welt pockets, the sew-along helped. This type of pocket looks so sleek, but I find it a bit tricky to sew.
Nevertheless, they turned out just fine, with some finagling. I also discovered some of my markings were off, so I had to remark them.
I went on to make the rest of the jacket without issue. The directions tell you to make flat fell seams.
While you’ll get the beautiful finish on the inside, I like to serge them.Then I do a double topstitch.
Sewing this sateen fabric was a dream. There was some stretching going on, which was annoying, but overall it was stable.
Adjustments
The only change I made to the sewing pattern was to crop it by an inch. And I played around with this on my mockup before, so I knew which length I liked.
To do this, I made the jacket up to the bottom band. Then I cut 1 inch off all the way around.
This also cuts off the bottom of the welt pocket, which gets tucked into the band. However, the pockets are still big enough with plenty of room.
Finishing Details
The shank buttons are ones I had in my stash, and I hand-sewed them in place. From a distance, they might look like shiny dungaree buttons.
I wish I had more of these buttons—so much easier to put on. And pretty too!
Project Notes
I used a disappearing ink fabric marker that didn’t wash out thoroughly! I had to soak it and work with it.
It took quite a few weeks before all the markings disappeared, and I was scared they wouldn’t come out. Ugh! All that hard work…
That’s why you should test your markings on scrap fabric. Sometimes these fabric pens and wax pencils don’t totally wash off.
I’m thinking that the finish on the fabric had something to do with this. I’ll use tailor’s chalk next time.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I like how my jacket looks and feels. Everything went pretty smoothly, and I didn’t have to use the seam-ripper too much!
The neutral color goes with so many of my outfits. I even got to wear it while exploring a volcano in Maui, as it got chilly up there!
More Sewing Projects
I have more related posts on my blog. You might want to check them out.
- I used this same sewing pattern to turn old jeans into a new upcycled jean jacket.
- You might like my handmade shacket in earth-toned colors.
- I made a long jacket that’s a classic to wear on windy days!
- What about some outerwear tips for a more professional look?
By the way, I’d love to hear about your sewing adventures!
Originally published: November 23, 2024
