Men’s Utility Jacket with Front Tucks | McCall’s M8352

I made a DIY men’s utility with tucks down the front. Though I’ve made button-up shirts with this detail before, this is the first for a jacket.

I like how they look, and this might be something I sew more often. If you follow my blog, you might know I like to make outerwear.

I’ll tell you all about the fabric, notions, my process, and share photos. You might end up making one too! 

McCall’s M8352 Jacket Pattern

I got McCalls M8352 sewing pattern a while ago and decided to use it. This button-up jacket is rated easy to sew.

This can be made into a shirt or a jacket with front pockets and length variations. Of course, there are the wide tucks that go down the front.

It’s unlined, with an unstructured, boxy fit. The sleeves are two pieces, and the cuffs have a button closure.

The pocket variations are either a flap pocket, patch pockets, or patch pockets that open at the side. 

I think someone at an intermediate level could tackle this pattern.

Materials

Here’s everything I used to make this garment. I already had the fabric in my stash and everything else. 

Fabric

I used a black twill from Joann that I got a long time ago. Actually, I wasn’t in love with the fabric and bought it on accident.

I thought I was buying a fabric that I really liked, but after I washed it, I realized I didn’t care for it. And don’t you wish you could return it at this point? 

I think it was a medium-weight, very stiff denim or twill with a polyester blend. Anyway, it wasn’t as soft as I prefer, and it didn’t have stretch.

Suggested fabrics for the project include denim, twill, cotton blends, and linen.

Notions

You’ll need eight or ten 3/4 inch (0.75 inch) buttons, depending on the length you make. I used BCBG branded ones that I found at the fashion district.

I used a medium-weight fusible interfacing for the collar cuffs and front facing.

Needle

I used a size 90/14 universal needle, and it worked just fine. 

Thread

For my sewing machine, I used matching Gutermann universal thread made of 100% polyester.

For the serging, I used Maxi-Lock thread. It’s for overlocking and made of 100% polyester too.

Sewing My Jacket 

Making this jacket was pretty straightforward. The directions were easy to follow.

Prepping

Because I have allergies to polyester and dark dyes, the fabric got to me. But I wanted to use it up, so I went ahead and dealt with it.

I started out by washing it a couple of times because I knew that would remove some of the dye. 

When cutting, I had to wear a mask and keep vacuuming. I was making this jacket for someone else, and that’s why I chose black.

I didn’t make a version in muslin because I had his measurements. When sewing for other people, I usually make a mock-up for the person to try on.

But sometimes that’s not feasible, especially when it’s a gift, and you don’t want to ruin the little surprise. 

Construction 

Sewing this was not very difficult and I chose version C. It was essentially like sewing a long-sleeved dress shirt with pockets.

The only difference is that the fabric was a little heavier. 

So the first thing I like to do when making a jacket is to attach the interfacing. I ironed it on all the pieces that need it, because I like getting it out of the way.

Then I made the patch pockets. I attached them to the front pieces. 

These are interesting to make because they’re hexagons. They’re basically square pockets with slanted or clipped corners. 

I had to make sure I didn’t enclose them in the side seam. And they might be a little tricky because of that side opening. 

But I plan to use them on future jackets because they’re cool looking. Plus, they’re nice and big!

They might be a good substitute for welt pockets, which can be a pain to make. So, I’m going to experiment with this.

Then I went on to make the tucks. This might be the most time-consuming part, but there are only two of them.

What I like is the horizontal stitching that goes across them. You’ll essentially make five different stitches that tack the tucks down.

After that, I sewed the back yolk and collar. The sleeves have a front and back piece. 

You have to leave a little opening to make the button closure for the cuff. This can be a little tricky too.

I topstitched and added my buttons, and it was done.

Adjustments

As I mentioned, this was a gift. And in the end, it was too big and not fitted to his liking. 

The size large looked like an extra large. I want to say this pattern must run big.

So, I ended up taking it up a little bit in the back. I deconstructed the back hem.

Then I slashed the back, making a V shape. This was similar to making long darts, but I angled them in.

Then I restitched the back hem. After that, it fit perfectly!

Another adjustment I made was on the sleeves. I extended the sleeves a couple inches longer. 

Finishing Details

I had serged my seams and double topstitched where I could. I really enjoy this part! Plus, it adds a wonderful detail.

Then I hand-sewed the buttons. I’ll add that it was my first choice to use dungaree buttons.

But we went with the big flat BCBG buttons. I actually gave him two options, and he didn’t like the shank buttons. 

Project Notes 

Well, this jacket actually burnt up in a fire, along with many other things. So, I’ll have to make it again!

Anyway, I recommend that you make a mockup to check the sizing. The pattern runs big, and we went by the sizing on the envelope.

Final Thoughts

Overall, making this utility jacket was easy. I might want to modify this men’s pattern and make a smaller version with tucks for myself. 

I’d would love to use these front hexagonal pockets on another garment. Let’s see if I get around to doing it, as I have so many things to sew!

More Sewing Projects 

I have many other related posts on my blog. You might want to check them out.

• The tracksuit jacket I made also has cool front pockets that open at the side. 

• I made this garment with black fabric that’s similar to my military jacket.

• How about some outerwear sewing tips to make those pieces more polished?

I’d love to hear all about your sewing journey!

Originally published: February 18, 2026