My Favorite Eyelet Dress Throwback | McCall’s M5804

Luna smiling to the camera wearing the DIY eyelet dress that she made with a sewing pattern

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On this Throwback Thursday, I hereby take this time to remember my favorite DIY eyelet dress! I have fond memories of making and wearing this dress, and it’s too sentimental to toss.

As I look back, my sewing has definitely come a long way. And this dress stopped fitting me a long time ago, so I’ll probably turn it into a skirt. 

So, as I reminisce, I’ll tell you a bit more about the pattern, fabric, and construction.

McCall’s M5804 Dress Pattern

Front envelope of McCall’s M5804 sewing pattern, dress

I was very much in my dress-wearing phase at this time in my life. I was buying patterns really cheap at Joann’s, and I was buying them all!

McCall’s M5804 is an A-line dress and a part of the Hilary Duff line. 

It’s a lined dress with a flared skirt and back zipper. The sleeves are lined too. There are different versions, and the one I made has a wrapped bodice that’s gathered. 

This pattern is out of print, but you might find it on eBay if you really want it.

Materials

Here’s everything I used for this project.

Fabric

Close up view of cotton eyelet fabric with vine design that Luna used to sew her dress

I got this cotton eyelet fabric from the fashion school near me. It’s got eyelet clusters in a floral vine pattern.

It’s a warm cream color, I believe, and seems to look more yellowish in the sun. I’m telling you, I wish I had more because I love it.

The lining is made of polyester, and back then that’s all I used for lining. Today I’d probably opt to use something else.

Notions

I used a 20-inch zipper and hook and eye. Plus I added lace and big buttons. 

Needle

I’m pretty sure I used a size 80/20 universal needle. It probably wasn’t sharp—just being honest.

Thread

Back in those days, I mostly used Coats and Clark thread, as I was sewing on my old Singer machine. Plus, I didn’t have a serger either. 

Sewing My Dress

Front view of DIY eyelet dress that Luna made on the dres form

It has been years since I made this dress, but I still fondly remember sewing it. As I mentioned, I was making a lot of dresses at this time. 

I pretty much had an obsession with making a new dress every week. I had bought so many sewing patterns, and my goal was to make each one of them.

I’m sure I followed the directions for this one, and it probably took me a couple of days to finish.

Construction 

Side view of DIY eyelet dress that Luna made on the dres form

Sewing eyelet was tricky for me, and this was one of my first makes for this fabric. The fabric had a nice quality, so it didn’t choke up in the machine.

This pattern was labeled easy, and I think it wasn’t too challenging. I thought that adding the lining was going to be difficult, but it really wasn’t.

Mind you, I had been adding linings to my dresses for a while before making this one. Maybe it’s because I was concerned about the lining being opaque enough for these eyelets.

Close up view of back zipper that Luna put on her DIY eyelet dress

And boy oh boy, that zipper in the back! I did the best I could at that time.

The more I look at it, the more something inside of me wants to fix it right now.

To be honest with you, no one ever noticed or said anything about it. The truth is, most people don’t even notice these little things that we find imperfect about the garments we make.

Finishing Touches

Close up view of buttons on DIY eyelet dress that Luna made

I don’t know why I added these big buttons to the midriff. Maybe I thought it made this dress more unique or fun?

Perhaps I wanted a detail to match the white lace. Okay, let’s talk about the lace!

And adding lace to everything was an obsession I had at this time. I added it to everything!

I’m not joking. I added it to underwear, t-shirts, shorts, dresses, tops, and skirts. 

If my blog had been running back then, I probably would have called it Luna Lacey or something like that!

Close up of lace edge on DIY eyelet dress that Luna made

Anyway, using the lace actually made it easier to finish this dress. Otherwise I would have hemmed it.

So, instead I did a zig-zag on the edges. Then I stitched the lace, overlapping it on the edge of the dress. 

Notes 

Front view of Luna’s DIY eyelet dress bodice with lace on the dress form

If you’ve never sewn eyelet before, don’t be afraid of it! It’s actually fun.

By the way, my friend took the picture of me wearing my dress when he was early in his photography days. He really liked this dress, by the way.

Overall

Back view of DIY eyelet dress that Luna made on the dres form

I think my eyelet dress came out pretty, and I still like it, flaws and all. It was made with my best efforts at the time. 

Looking back at all the old garments I made makes me realize how much better I’ve gotten throughout the years. 

I’m looking forward to upcycling it into something new. Do you ever reflect on some of your old makes too?

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Originally published: July 23, 2026

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