Gathered Midi Skirt with Front Inseam Pockets | Simplicity S1369

I made a DIY gathered midi skirt with front inseam pockets. It’s flowy, casual, and you can dress it up or down.

Plus, you can adjust the amount of fabric around the waist. The fuller the skirt, the more shape it gives to the hips.

So, if you want to look curvy or create an hourglass shape, try one on for size. I’ll tell you all about the pattern, materials, process, and share photos of my creation. 

Simplicity S1369 Skirt Pattern

I’ve had Simplicity S1369 sewing pattern forever, since it first came out. It makes a cute, classic skirt.

It has inseam pockets and a zipper back. You can also make a skirt with an overlay, which would be nice for a formal occasion.

There are variations to make it knee-length or midi. Actually, I’d say around the knee length because it’s much shorter on me.

I’d put this pattern at an intermediate sewing level because of the gathering and zipper. 

Materials

Here’s all the stuff I used to make this skirt, and it all worked out.

Fabric

I found my fabric in the fashion district, and it feels like cotton gauze. I’m not sure what it’s mixed with because they don’t label materials.

It’s always a guessing game over there. But it was cheap, so I thought I’d use it to experiment with.

The fabric floats when I walk in my skirt. It’s airy—the perfect word to describe it.

I love the dark blue color, and found a lightweight tencel fabric for the lining.

Suggested fabrics include batiks, brocade, chambray, cotton types, crepe de chine, linen types, faille, satin, sateen, and taffeta. For the overlay, you need a see-through fabric.

Notions

You’ll need a 7-inch invisible zipper. I use longer zippers and cut them to fit.

I also used lightweight fusible interfacing for the waistband.

Needle

Both fabrics used for my skirt were lightweight, so I used a size 75/11 universal needle to sew them. 

Thread

For my sewing machine, I used all-purpose polyester thread. I have so many shades of blue in the Gutermann brand.

To finish seams, I used Maxi-Lock serger spun thread. It’s for overlocking and made of polyester.

Sewing My Skirt

I looked at the directions that came with the sewing pattern. All went well until one part stumped me! 

Prepping

I made a mockup in muslin fabric in my usual size. The skirt fit low on my waist. 

Simplicity patterns usually add 2 inches of ease around the waist.

Well, that means that if you have a 28-inch waist, the finished skirt will have a 30-inch waistband. 

It dropped to my belly button, and that’s an uncomfortable fit. And it wanted it higher.

So you either have to size down, which might be too small, or adjust the waistband.

Construction

With the size figured out, I went on to make my skirt. It only has a few pattern pieces, so it wouldn’t be too complicated, right?

Well, gathering always takes time to even them out. I always mark my center and side points on the waistband and the skirt.

That way, it’s easier to match up the points when gathering. I like to use straight pins along with my markings.

And take note of the pocket placement. They don’t fall on the sides.

The seam pockets sit in the front, which threw me off when I first made this sewing pattern. I thought… hmmm, that’s weird. 

My gathering marks were off… No! They weren’t. 

The pockets do not line up on the side seams of the waistband. I’m so used to side seam pockets, I didn’t pay attention.

That’s what I get for not following the directions! Sometimes when you get good at sewing, a project tests you and throws curveballs!

This skirt has an invisible zipper back, and I made it work. The fabric was so uncooperative at times.

Adjustments

After wearing my skirt, I shortened the length. So it went from a long midi skirt to just past the knees. 

Anyway, I like this length much better.

Final Touches

I also added a lining to my skirt. If you need one, cut it the same size as your skirt, but minus one inch in length. 

To add it, first sew up all the side seams for the skirt, including the pockets. Then, sew up the side seams for your lining. 

Insert the lining in the skirt. Then, baste it to the skirt top before gathering it to the waistband.

Project Notes

If you want more fullness around your hips, size up the skirt when cutting. Then, you’ll have more fabric to play with.

For example, I made a size 14 waist. If I wanted more fabric to gather, I would cut a size 16 skirt. Even out the gatherings as usual.

I typically like to size down my skirt, and I still have more than enough fabric to gather. You can make a mockup to see how it looks.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’m happy with my comfy, flowy skirt. I wore it on a road trip in Arizona, and it was perfect for exploring.

I just have to remember that the seam pockets are actually in the front and not at the sides. I’m looking forward to making it again, perhaps in cotton. 

More Sewing Projects

I have more related posts on my blog. You might want to check them out. 

• What about a gathered summer skirt with an elastic back waistband?

• I’ll show you how to do my flat front elastic back with a zipper on it.

• Would you like to know how I turned a pair of old pants into a new linen wrap skirt?

• I made a denim mini skirt and hacked the waistband to have elastic in the back.

I’d love to hear what kind of sewing projects you’re working on!

Originally published: December 10, 2024