Sewing Mockups for Pattern Fitting: What I Learned

I’ve been sewing a whole lot of mockups lately!  This was mainly for pattern fitting and to size them to my body.

And although I’ve made some of these before, I’m a different size now. I also measured the flat pattern and compared it to the finished size on the pattern envelope.

So come along as I tell you what I learned and show you all my fun mockups!  

Mockups I’ve Sewn

Okay, some people would call these toiles or muslins (other cool words for “mockup”). They’re basically the rough draft before sewing the final version in good fabric.

By the way, mine aren’t perfect, but I make them good enough to get on!

And making these helped my sewjo a bit. I was gone for a bit because I was sick. Cue the sad face!

1. V-neck Button-Up Blouse

I made this semi-fitted button-up, V-neck blouse with Simplicity S9606/R11537. And honestly, I haven’t been making a lot of blouses lately.

So, for this one, I’m going to have to extend the shoulder length. I made a size 10, and the bust is too high on me, so I’ll need to adjust that. 

As you can see, I didn’t make the sleeves, because it’s not necessary. Trying to save my muslin too!

But I’ll have to adjust the armscyle because it’s a bit tight. 

2. Mini Skirt with Fly Zipper

I made this mini skirt in a cheap stretch denim that I found in the fashion district. This skirt was made with Simplicity S9924, and it’s so cute!

The size 12 is just right, as this is one I’d wear on the waist or even a bit lower. And I messed up with the fly zipper, as you can see, I drew it on the wrong side.

Anyway, I plan to adjust the length and make it longer. Otherwise, this came out well and fits.

3. Paper Bag Pants

Okay, these are paper bag pants that I’ve been planning on making for a while. So I decided to make New Look N6704 in muslin fabric.

They have an elastic waist, and the crotch had to be adjusted. So, I added length to the back and crotch point.

I made these into shorts, as it wasn’t necessary to make the full inseam. As I mentioned before, I’m tight with my muslin!

Anyway, the size 12 fit well! So, I have these ready to make. 

4. Mini Skirt with Exposed Zipper

I made McCall’s M8389, which has a mini skirt version with an exposed zipper. And I attached a separating zipper that was in my stash.

I made the skirt with over an inch of ease around the waist, but it feels a little snug. So, I’m going to make some adjustments.

Plus, the fit is really high on the waist, and this one is a bit snug around my lower belly too. Sizing up to a 14 might fix this.

Otherwise, I made this one in muslin and just love this skirt!

5. Sleeveless Crop Top

This is a sleeveless crop top that fastens in the back, meant to be fitted. Honestly, when I made New Look N6722, it was still a bit big at a size 8.

So, I’m going to have to make some adjustments because it’s loose around the lower bust. There are many sections to this garment, and I was a bit annoyed that it didn’t fit.

I’ll sit on this for now. It’s also meant to be made in woven fabric, but I’d prefer to make something like this in a stable knit.

6. Flared Mini Skirt with Yoke

I used Simplicity S2655 to make this flared mini skirt with yoke before. But I made this mockup because planning on playing around with this pattern in the future.

Anyway, it’s an older pattern, and the sizing is generous. So, I brought in the size 12 to nearly a size 10, but I might need to bring it in a little more.

Anyway, I’m leaning toward a knee-length version with pockets for my next make.

7. Two Front-Pleated Skirt

I’ve made this skirt with two front pleats and a side zipper using Simplicity S2698 many times. I thought I had this mockup in my stash already, but I didn’t!

Anyway, I’ve made a flat front elastic back version with this one. It’s a Project Runway pattern, and there are fun ways to change it up.

Anyway, sizing is generous, and I brought in this size 12 at the waist. But I have some plans to change up this one more, so let’s see what I come up with. 

8. Straight Midi Skirt with Front Slit

I made this midi skirt with a front slit in linen using New Look N6757. This is a cheaper bottomweight fabric I found in the fashion district, and it was perfect!

I made it with more ease around the waist. With straight skirts, I like to wear them lower on the waist.

The hip on this size 12 needs adjusting. I’ll grade up to a 14 for more ease because one wrong move, and I know it’ll rip. 

But this one is flattering for real! I just love it, especially with that long slit.

9. Yoke Wrap Skirt

I already made the high-low version of this midi skirt with Simplicity S8958. But I made another in muslin fabric without the hem.

It’s a yoke wrap skirt, and I have plans to reinvent this skirt in the future. I made it a size bigger, and this time sized down to a 12. 

I make this version as simple as can be, but I want to use it as a base for a future idea. Being that it’s a wrap skirt, the waist can be easily adjusted, but it’s the hips that might get snug.

10. Oversized Button-Up Shirt

McCall’s M8263 is a unisex button-up shirt that I made in both small and medium. I made both with muslin fabric. 

Why the two sizes? Well, I was making a version for someone else and one for myself.

Neither shirt fit. The small one was way too big for me, unless I go for an oversized look. 

But one thing I did was remove the tucks from the shirt, and that’ll be another blog post. 

11. Gathered Skirt with Back Zipper

Simplicity S1369 is a gathered skirt with a back zipper that I’ve made a few times. So why would I make a mockup? 

Well, I was running a little experiment for a future blog post. I tested the sizing to see if it’d match up. 

There’s no finished size on the envelope, so I measured the flat pattern.

But I made three mockups just to see what the difference would be between sizes 10, 12, and 14. 

The results were interesting, and that will have to be another blog post!

Additional Notes

Although I always measure the flat pattern to get my size, making a mockup is a good way to test the garment for sure.

Plus, I write my notes on my mockups and keep them in a bag for future sewing. When I want to make a project, I pull out the mockup and try it on.

If my size has changed, I know how to adjust the mockup and pattern.

Final Thoughts

I had fun making all of my mockups and finally sewed up some patterns I haven’t touched yet. It was a good way to do some low-pressure sewing and test the fit.

Well, the sizes don’t always match my expectations. I find myself doing as much adjusting as sewing! 

Anyway, what kind of mockups have you made recently?

More About Sewing

• By the way, want to know how I finally dealt with my unfinished sewing projects?

• Find out what I found in the sewing department at Walmart!

• I’ll show you how I organize my sewing room, and you might get ideas. 

Originally published: June 2, 2026