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Oh boy, I made some DIY straight-leg linen pants with a tie belt. They have a comfy, relaxed fit, and are perfect for my travels.
Plus, I made a fun mockup with some leftover fabrics. I don’t know which version I like better, but I wear them both!
Maybe you’ll tell me, as I share the pattern, materials used, my process, and photos of my creations.
Simplicity S9050 Pants Pattern
I’ve had Simplicity S9050 sewing pattern since it first came out, and made a few pairs of pants with it. It’s labeled easy-to-sew and not so complicated to make.
It has an elastic waist with a flat front section. The pants are pull-on with two variations.
I made one, and the other has a drawstring in the front, which gathers under the waistband. I haven’t made that one yet.
Both have straight legs that are slightly tapered near the ankle, with front scoop pockets and back patch pockets. There’s the option to add a tie belt or a belt with a buckle.
Materials
Here’s everything I used to make my pants. Cheers to having enough yardage in one color!
Fabric
I’ve made these pants in different fabrics, and they’ve all worked out well. You’ll want to choose one with a bit of structure, and not anything too drapey.
For my mockup, I used cotton woven and linen. For my maroon colored pants, I used a linen rayon blend that I got from Joann. I seriously have this fabric in so many colors!
With the rayon mixed in, it gives the pants a nicer drape. Plus, it wrinkles less than pure linen.
The suggested fabrics include chambray, cotton types, lightweight denim, linen types, poplin, sateen, and seersucker.
Notions
I used 1-1/4-inch (1.25-inch) wide knit elastic for the waistband. Note, the suggested elastic is 1 inch wide, but I altered the waistband.
I also used 1/2 inch (0.5-inch) wide single-fold bias tape for the pockets.
There are other notions that you’ll need, but I didn’t use them for these pants. These include 1-inch wide ribbon for the belt and back patch pockets, and two 1-inch wide D-rings.
Needle
I used a size 90/14 universal needle for sewing midweight woven fabrics.
Thread
For my sewing machine, I used matching Gutermann sew-all thread. It’s made of 100% polyester.
For the serging, I used matching Maxi-Lock spun thread. It’s also made of polyester.
Sewing My Pants
I’d say making these pants was straightforward. The most time-consuming part might be the long leg seams and topstitching.
Prepping
Like I mentioned, I made a fun mockup. I typically use fabric in my stash that is similar to the one I’ll use for my final version. And if I don’t have that, I’ll use muslin.
I actually found a linen-blend fabric in my stash. It came from the fashion district, and the weave is a little loose. I mixed that with muslin and cotton print woven fabric.
First, I made my mockup a bit too big, so I sized it down. I’m in between sizes and tend to size up at first.
However, I need to start by sizing down. So, the size 14 fit me, giving me enough ease for that relaxed fit.
Construction
Sewing these pants wasn’t difficult, and I mostly followed the directions. The linen was nice and stable, and easy to sew.
The bias tape was used for the front inside pocket. Before making these pants, I hadn’t used it for sewing pockets like this.
But I’m going to start adding this little construction technique. It finishes the pocket nicely.
I added my back patch pockets, and really like them. On my mockup, I made contrasting pockets.
With these pants, you have the option to make the front legs in one piece or with two. The two piece-front with the seam down the middle adds a nice detail.
The elastic waistband has a little section between the front belt loops where it’s supposed to be flat. However, the elastic goes through the whole casing.
Mine still has a little gathering in front. But I tried my best to smooth out the fabric so the front casing would be flat.
Adjustments
I lengthened the crotch by 1 inch in the back. I checked the fit when making my mockup.
As I noted earlier, I used a wider elastic than what is suggested. The pattern waistband was designed for 1-inch wide elastic.
Well, I like using wider elastic, so I made the waistband wider to accommodate the 1-1/4 inch (1.25 inch) elastic that I used.
If you’d like to use a wider elastic, you’ll have to make the waistband wider. That way, the elastic can go through the casing.
If it’s too tight, that won’t look good. Plus, you’ll probably have issues pulling it through.
Finishing Details
I topstitched all the seams, with a double topstitch on the pockets and front leg seams. It keeps the seam nice and flat.
A nice double stitch also adds decoration and detail to the overall look.
I made the tie-belt, and I wanted it to tie around the waist, so I skipped adding the D-rings.
Project Notes
Many pull-on pants have a relaxed fit. But, you’ll still need to adjust the elastic waist and crotch if needed.
If your pants rise up or sag too low in the crotch, you’ll need to adjust them.
When attaching the waistband (and all pieces), be sure to pin it in place. I make sure everything is aligned, then I baste before sewing permanent stitches.
Simplicity S2850 Wardrobe Pattern
I made both of my knit tops shown, but I’ll talk about Simplicity S2850 sewing pattern. It’s made of the flowered knit fabric that I made a long time ago.
It first started out as a tunic, but then I cropped it into a shorter top. And originally it had a casing with elastic on the sleeve.
But I removed that too. I reinvent my wardrobe all the time!
And although I like this top, it was sized when I was smaller. But it still fits, plus the fabric stretches.
Final Thoughts
These pants fit me well, and I like having a relaxed fit while traveling. They are so comfy for sightseeing and wandering around.
Plus, linen is so breathable during hot days! But, I’m on the fence about making more, so I’ll use these up for now.
More Sewing Projects
- I made side slit pants with chambry fabric that just flows when I walk.
- What about paper bag pants for a cute and casual look?
- Wondering how to put elastic in a waistband casing? I’ll show you.
Originally published: July 8, 2025
